Coming soon A/W 13/14 High Line_

The Ready to Fish_ Autumn/Winter 13/14 collection is inspired by the New York City High Line Park, mainly the congruity of nature and artificiality in one setting.  The park is located on an old railroad line, the West Side line, which has now been transformed into an urban escape of nature and beauty.  This idea of blending the natural with the unnatural into one harmonized environment is the central concept behind and can be seen in all aspects of the collection.

Piet Oudolf, Dutch garden designer of High Line, creates a landscape of colour and texture by maintaining the plants’ natural state throughout all four seasons.  This idea of retaining and respecting the natural qualities of an object is another core vision of this collection.  By understanding the characteristics and allowing organic behaviour without manipulation, it is then possible to observe the natural occurrence of the element.  This notion of letting something run its own course is practiced in the design process of HIGH LINE.  The materials are not manipulated but enabled to take their natural shape.

This fusion of natural and unnatural is visualized in both the choice of fabric and colour story.  The collection utilizes both technical, synthetic fabrics and natural fibre blends.  The technical, new development blends with ease of care and wearability, are used as suiting fabrics and for the structure in the garments.  While many of the natural fabrics, such as wool, cotton, and viscose blends convey the lightweight, organic aspects of nature.

The colour story is composed of varying tones of greys, blues, greens, browns, and burnt orange.  All of which can be found in the contrasting components, manmade and natural, of the High Line Park.  The colours of metals, like slate grey, steel blue, rust, and oxidized copper, represent the artificial elements of the city.  At the same time these colours can also be found in nature, such as green grass, burnt orange of autumn leaves, and the blue/grey of the city sky.  The prints not only visualize this merge of opposing ideas, but also represent search for knowledge, such as Oudolf’s understanding from previous generations.  The prints were digitally created to typify late 19th century Encyclopaedia drawings, compiling images of elements of plants with the tools and objects that would be used to build the High Line.

The silhouettes and design details reflect all possible occasions and activities that take place in the park.  For activities of action or performance, the designs exhibit a sportive influence.  This is seen in high-tech, active-wear elements such as technical and double-faced fabrics and fast fastenings of Velcro and plastic zips and snap buttons.  Another example would be time of relaxation in the park, seen in sleek, leisurewear looks, comprising of brushed fabrics and knits.  This symbolism is especially true for the versatility and personal value of the park, representing the adaptability and functionality of each piece in the collection.

Ilja Visser.

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